Performance issues with new PC

AdrIll

Member
Hello,

I would love if someone could give me some advice on what to do.

My PC is new and has some pretty good components in it. Now the PC has been running pretty smooth but as of lately it started to run extremely slow and with frequent freezes, crashes, bluescreens, etc. This only occurs with light or moderate tasks that my PC shouldn't be struggling with at all. Even if i enable XMP my system still struggles and freezes.

I've recently requested a new RAM stick because I think one of them is faulty. Although I'm still not sure if that's the issue.

If someone has any idea please let me know.





Case
CORSAIR OBSIDIAN SERIES™ 500D SE CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™ i7 Eight Core Processor i7-10700K (3.8GHz) 16MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® ROG STRIX Z490-F GAMING (LGA1200, USB 3.2, CrossFireX/SLI) - ARGB Ready
Memory (RAM)
32GB Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
8GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3060 Ti - HDMI, DP, LHR
1st Storage Drive
4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 5400RPM, 256MB CACHE
1st Storage Drive
2TB SEAGATE IRONWOLF PRO 3.5", 7200 RPM 128MB CACHE
Power Supply
CORSAIR 550W TXm SERIES™ SEMI-MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Processor Cooling
Corsair H100i RGB PLATINUM Hydro Series High Performance CPU Cooler
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND
Extra Case Fans
1x 120mm Thermaltake TOUGHFAN 12 Case Fan
Sound Card
Asus Xonar AE 7.1-Channel Gaming Audio Card
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
WIRELESS INTEL® Wi-Fi 6 AX200 2,400Mbps/5GHz, 300Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD + BT 5.0
USB/Thunderbolt Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Operating System
Windows 10 Professional 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence
 

Steveyg

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
At a glance to me it could be the power supply, you'll be running very close to the wire with a 3060Ti and an i7 on a 550W PSU

Nvidia themselves recommend a minimum of 600W for the 3060Ti, the new 3000 series GPU's are very power hungry.
 

AgentCooper

At Least I Have Chicken
Moderator
When the PC arrived and you set it up, did you run Windows update repeatedly until no more were available?

And did/do you have any third party antivirus software installed, such as the trial of BullGuard?
 

AdrIll

Member
@AgentCooper I've had the PC now for a couple of months. I've done all updates in regards to windows, drivers, etc.
No Antivirus was installed except the standard windows defender.

@Steveyg The 550W PSU was recommended when I was assembling the PC on the website but I see what you mean, how would I go about this?
 

Steveyg

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
Yeah the power calculator is generally what's required to run the parts at a minimum level. Underload the parts can consume much more, it also doesn't seem to factor in the much higher power consumption of the newer GPU's in my opinion.

There's no easy way to upgrade a PSU unfortunately, options are pretty much installing it yourself which isn't the most difficult of tasks but it's time consuming and it can be daunting if you've never done it before. I'm not sure if sending the computer back to PCS to have them do it would be viable due to the massive lead times on RMA's and such at the minute but that's all down to personal restraints.
 

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
You could run Memtest, just to rule out the faulty RAM.

You could also remove one of the sticks and see if the error continues, if it does.... try the other one... if it still does it could potentially be the PSU.

I wouldn't immediately jump to the PSU. As much as I agree it's not suitable, they tend to be designed with enough headroom to allow for a bit of a stretch.
 

AdrIll

Member
I ran the Memtest and it said That the ram is fine

Im really not sure what could be causing it...
 

AdrIll

Member
I also ran the PC on one 16gb ram stick (tried both) everything was fine.
Tried switching to A1 B1 instead of A2 B2 slot on the motherboard and if i would enable XMP the red light would show on the motherboard, meaning system instability and after a while it would start to boot up and immediately shut down.
 

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
My PC is new and has some pretty good components in it. Now the PC has been running pretty smooth but as of lately it started to run extremely slow and with frequent freezes, crashes, bluescreens, etc. This only occurs with light or moderate tasks that my PC shouldn't be struggling with at all.
Take a look at this thread. If you've been seeing blue screens then there will be memory dumps written. Ideally we'd like the kernel dump in the file C:\Windows\Memory.dmp if it exists. If not then upload any relevant minidumps in the folder C:\Windows\Minidumps. Also please upload your Application and System logs and your list of installed drivers as described in the linked post. :)
 

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
First off, you said this earlier....
@AgentCooper I've had the PC now for a couple of months. I've done all updates in regards to windows, drivers, etc.
No Antivirus was installed except the standard windows defender.
And yet the dumps show Malwarebytes Premium drivers loaded (mbamswissarmy.sys, MbamChameleon.sys, mbam.sys, mbae64.sys). There are also Windows Defender drivers loaded, thouigh I can't tell from the dump whether the antivirus engine is activated. It's well known that if you have two antivirus engines running you'll have problems. I would recommend removing Malwarebytes Premium - third party antivirus tools are IMO the fastest way to a BSOD.

In your System log I can see the large number of application errors happening. There doesn't seem to be any common denominator between them application wise, though there are a lot of failures for MoUsoCoreWorker.exe, this is the component of Windows Updates that wakes periodically to check for updates. I'm not at all sure why that should fail more than other applications, perhaps it's just that it runs more often?

In the 072021-43812-01-ADRILL.dmp mindump (dated Tue Jul 20 10:58:05.824 2021 (UTC + 3:00)) the stop code is a DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE with an exception code of 0x3 - meaning a driver has been running an Interrupt Request Process (IRP) for too long. IRPs implement the front end of device interrupts and because the CPU runs disabled for interrupts during an IRP they must be short running.

The driver at fault here is an old favourite; nvlddmkm.sys, the NVidia graphics driver. The failure bucket ID was
0x9F_3_POWER_DOWN_nvlddmkm!unknown_function, which suggests that the driver was trying to change the power state of the graphics card (put it to sleep?) and something unexpected happened.

This might point at either the driver or the card, but it could also be something else getting in the way.

In the 071721-71375-01-ADRILL.dmp minidump (Sun Jul 18 00:13:46.550 2021 (UTC + 3:00)) the stop code is MEMORY_MANAGEMENT with an exception code of 0x3F - meaning a page-in operation failed its CRC check. This happens where a memory page has been paged in to RAM from the pagefile and the CRC check shows that the page is bad.

This points at either your RAM or the drive containing the pagefile - usually the system drive. I don't know which of those two HDDs is your system drive but I'd assume it's the 7200rpm one?

On the face of it these two dumps, which are only a couple of days apart, are pointing in completely different directions. One points pretty clearly at the graphics card or driver and the other points at RAM or the HDD. The common denominator that links them both is RAM.

I see that Memtest ran clean. That cannot prove that your RAM is good, it can only show that it's bad, so your RAM is still suspect. You said in your OP that I've recently requested a new RAM stick because I think one of them is faulty. What made you think one of them was faulty?

I would suggest that you do two things now (well three really)...

1. Backup everything on your system drive (or whichever drive the pagefile is on).

2. Run a chkdsk /r /x on the drive containing the pagefile. You will have to reboot afterwards. If the output shows errors I would look at replacing the drive, even if it says they were corrected.

3. If the chkdsk shows no errors then remove one stick of RAM and run with that for a while. How long is a while I hear you ask? You say these problems happen often? So take the longest time you've had it running between two failures, double that time and run on one stick for that long. Then swap the RAM sticks over and run for the same length of time on the other RAM stick. That's the only way to show whether your RAM is bad - but you must run it long enough to give it chance to fail.
 
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