Real Users' Benchmarks - Rank of PCS Laptops

PoneyKlub

Member
Hi everyone,

I just received my Ionico 17 with a i7-12700H and 3070 Ti, here is the firestrike results:
No over/under clocking.

Very happy about the built quality and the delivery service (in France) !
My last laptop was a wreck (msi GS70 2QE with a 970M), so a nice upgrade :)

Cheers !

Châssis et affichage
Ionico Series : Écran large LED mat 17,3 pouces 240 Hz sRGB 100 % QHD (2560 x 1440)
Processeur (Unité centrale)
Processeur 14-Core Intel® Core™ i7-12700H (2,3 GHz, 4,7 GHz Turbo) 24 Mo de cache
Mémoire (RAM)
16 Go Corsair 4800 MHz SODIMM DDR5 (1 x 16 Go)
Carte graphique
NVIDIA® GeForce® RTX 3070 Ti - 8 Go de RAM vidéo GDDR6 - DirectX® 12.1
1er disque SSD M.2
1 To SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (jusqu'à 7000 Mo/R, 5000 Mo/W)
Lecteur de carte mémoire
Lecteur de carte mémoire Micro-SD intégré
Adaptateur C.A.
Un adaptateur secteur 280 W
Câble d'alimentation
1 câble d'alimentation européen, 1,5 m (C13/14)
Batterie
Batterie lithium-ion intégrée de 91 WH série Ionico
Pâte thermique
PÂTE THERMIQUE ARCTIC MX-4 EXTRÊME CONDUCTIVITÉ
Carte son
High Definition Audio 2 canaux + prise MIC/casque
Carte de réseau sans fil
GIGABIT LAN ET KILLER™ WI-FI-AX 1650 M.2 GAMING + BLUETOOTH 5.0
 

PoneyKlub

Member
Hi everyone,

I just received my Ionico 17 with a i7-12700H and 3070 Ti, here is the firestrike results:
No over/under clocking.

Very happy about the built quality and the delivery service (in France) !
My last laptop was a wreck (msi GS70 2QE with a 970M), so a nice upgrade :)

Cheers !

Châssis et affichage
Ionico Series : Écran large LED mat 17,3 pouces 240 Hz sRGB 100 % QHD (2560 x 1440)
Processeur (Unité centrale)
Processeur 14-Core Intel® Core™ i7-12700H (2,3 GHz, 4,7 GHz Turbo) 24 Mo de cache
Mémoire (RAM)
16 Go Corsair 4800 MHz SODIMM DDR5 (1 x 16 Go)
Carte graphique
NVIDIA® GeForce® RTX 3070 Ti - 8 Go de RAM vidéo GDDR6 - DirectX® 12.1
1er disque SSD M.2
1 To SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (jusqu'à 7000 Mo/R, 5000 Mo/W)
Lecteur de carte mémoire
Lecteur de carte mémoire Micro-SD intégré
Adaptateur C.A.
Un adaptateur secteur 280 W
Câble d'alimentation
1 câble d'alimentation européen, 1,5 m (C13/14)
Batterie
Batterie lithium-ion intégrée de 91 WH série Ionico
Pâte thermique
PÂTE THERMIQUE ARCTIC MX-4 EXTRÊME CONDUCTIVITÉ
Carte son
High Definition Audio 2 canaux + prise MIC/casque
Carte de réseau sans fil
GIGABIT LAN ET KILLER™ WI-FI-AX 1650 M.2 GAMING + BLUETOOTH 5.0
Hello everyone,

Looking at the other results, especially the valeon with a 3070ti / intel 12700h, my firestrike score looks like below par at 22.5k.

Do you think it is a normal score as my ionico is thinner than the valeon ?
Or should I be more around the 25000 on firestrike ?

For information, I have updated all my drivers and install all windows update. I did no under/over cloking. It was under the turbo performance mode during the test.

Many thanks !
 

barlew

Godlike
@PoneyKlub Looking at the difference between you and the similarly specced defiance your GPU and CPU appear to be running at a lower clock rate. You could push more performance by setting your fan profile to Max Fans in Control Center, unlocking your dynamic boost and setting your TGP to the max.
 

PoneyKlub

Member
Hi Barlew,

Indeed, quite logical, here is the new results with Max Fans, TGP to the max for CPU and Dynamic Boost to the mas for GPU:
Average clock frequency for the CPU seems still low at 3 154 MHz.

Just a quick question, max temperature for CPU hit the 100C°, should I be worried ?
For info, I ask for the Grizzly past in option.

Many thanks !
 

barlew

Godlike
Hi Barlew,

Indeed, quite logical, here is the new results with Max Fans, TGP to the max for CPU and Dynamic Boost to the mas for GPU:
Average clock frequency for the CPU seems still low at 3 154 MHz.

Just a quick question, max temperature for CPU hit the 100C°, should I be worried ?
For info, I ask for the Grizzly past in option.

Many thanks !
That Intel CPU does run hot. In terms of weather you should be worried or not would depend on more testing. If you want more advice start a new thread and people will help you test your thermals.

P.S sorry for the mega late response.
 

solidus1983

Bronze Level Poster
Upgraded my i5 11400 to i7 11700K on my X170KM-G

Fully stock on everything no tweaks yet, don't have the time to do optimising like i used to now i am working., but plan to do so on weekend.
 

FerrariVie

Super Star
It's been a long time since we've updated this rank, so I decided to give it a go in 2024 (3 years after my last run) after a recent windows clean install on a new (actually old :p) SSD.

I'm impressed, the results are better than they've ever been at stock, even beating some of my overclocked results. Not sure what caused the improvement, but it could have been either the fresh windows install, Windows 11 (was using W10 at the time), improvement on Nvidia drivers or something that was sucking resources at the time that I was not aware of.

New run:

Old best stock results:

PS: Only tweak I did was undervolting, which we have always still considered stock since the clocks have not been messed with. But I'm pretty sure I was already undervolting in 2021.
 
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Scanian

Bronze Level Poster
It's been a long time since we've updated this rank, so I decided to give it a go in 2024 (3 years after my last run) after a recent windows clean install on a new (actually old :p) SSD.

I'm impressed, the results are better than they've ever been at stock, even beating some of my overclocked results. Not sure what caused the improvement, but it could have been either the fresh windows install, Windows 11 (was using W10 at the time), improvement on Nvidia drivers or something that was sucking resources at the time that I was not aware of.

New run:

Old best stock results:

PS: Only tweak I did was undervolting, which we have always still considered stock since the clocks have not been messed with. But I'm pretty sure I was already undervolting in 2021.
Even if it's a bit off-topic, and my old Defiance V is just my backup laptop at the moment, may I ask what tools you use to undervolt? Nothing can be done within the BIOS or the tools that came with it, so I guess it's either ThrottleStop or Intel XTU (if your CPU is Intel). ThrottleStop is better on the surface IMO, but it has to be setup to autostart once you have found a stable level. Undervolting is the only tweaking I am willing to do, because I don't want to wear down my components with overclocking, and the increase in performance isn't worth it to me. It's a huge topic, I know, but if you could just write a few sentences on how you did it, I would appreciate it.
 

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
It's been a long time since we've updated this rank, so I decided to give it a go in 2024 (3 years after my last run) after a recent windows clean install on a new (actually old :p) SSD.

I'm impressed, the results are better than they've ever been at stock, even beating some of my overclocked results. Not sure what caused the improvement, but it could have been either the fresh windows install, Windows 11 (was using W10 at the time), improvement on Nvidia drivers or something that was sucking resources at the time that I was not aware of.

New run:

Old best stock results:

PS: Only tweak I did was undervolting, which we have always still considered stock since the clocks have not been messed with. But I'm pretty sure I was already undervolting in 2021.

Undervolting can make a big improvement to performance with Laptops. A laptop is limited in PL1 & PL2 by the wattage that it uses, the wattage affects the average boost clock throughout the test so if you lower the voltage you decrease the wattage required to reach a certain frequency, and thus the more performance gained when still stable. If you ran totally stock you would get less performance.

Depending on the test, undervolting can offer more performance than increasing the PL1 & PL2 limits, although doing both is often the best solution but takes a lot of testing to get to the happy medium of overall power usage (It's split between the CPU & the GPU so one affects the other).
 

FerrariVie

Super Star
Even if it's a bit off-topic, and my old Defiance V is just my backup laptop at the moment, may I ask what tools you use to undervolt? Nothing can be done within the BIOS or the tools that came with it, so I guess it's either ThrottleStop or Intel XTU (if your CPU is Intel). ThrottleStop is better on the surface IMO, but it has to be setup to autostart once you have found a stable level. Undervolting is the only tweaking I am willing to do, because I don't want to wear down my components with overclocking, and the increase in performance isn't worth it to me. It's a huge topic, I know, but if you could just write a few sentences on how you did it, I would appreciate it.
My Nova is a DTR with an AMD desktop CPU, so we do have (although limited) configurations for clocks and voltages in the BIOS, but using Ryzen Master (or similar, like Zen States) is also possible for a OS-based tweak.

So I did set up 1.025V on the BIOS for the stock clocks (3.9Ghz max boost), as the next step down in voltage is quite far (1.0V) and I've found that to be not stable in some very specific situations. I could leave it at 1.0V and it would work for most daily tasks, but the ideal voltage for my CPU on stock clocks is 1.013V, which I can do in Windows if I want to.

In your case you're probably right: xtu or throttlestop, the latter being what I used on my old i5 6300HQ.
 
Last edited:

Scanian

Bronze Level Poster
My Nova is a DTR with an AMD desktop CPU, so we do have (although limited) configurations for clocks and voltages in the BIOS, but using Ryzen Master (or similar, like Zen States) is also possible for a OS-based tweak.

So I did set up 1.025V on the BIOS for the stock clocks (3.9Ghz max boost), as the next step down in voltage is quite far (1.0V) and I've found that to be not stable in some very specific situations. I could leave it at 1.0V and it would work for most daily tasks, but the ideal voltage for my CPU on stock clocks is 1.013V, which I can do in Windows if I want to.

In your case you're probably right: xtu or throttlestop, the latter being what I used on my old i5 6300HQ.
Yes, AMD destop CPUs are open for undervolting while their laptop CPUs generally are not. Intels counterparts are normally different. It takes some learning and experimentation to get a grasp of it. Thanks for the input, all the same. On topic, I can only say that my Vantage has an i9 8950-something, which I managed to boost is Firestrike by close to 2000 points using undervolting alone, but never came around to setting it up to boot at that level using Throttlestop.

I will not promote my new laptop of another brand, because I was very pleased with PCS. The only reason to switch was because it is used for both work and play, and a support plan on-site was necessary. I can only say that performance in even triple-A titles are so good that I cannot really justify fiddling around with it. But my style of games aren't eSports-titles and I don't need 4K. My eyesight cannot really tell the difference on anything with stable 60 FPS or more. In Witcher 3 or Baldur's gate 3, the performance out-of-the-box, is just more than enough, but getting a bit extra from my old one could be worth it. 🙂 Given the time, it is my next project.
 

FerrariVie

Super Star
It's been a long time since we've updated this rank, so I decided to give it a go in 2024 (3 years after my last run) after a recent windows clean install on a new (actually old :p) SSD.

I'm impressed, the results are better than they've ever been at stock, even beating some of my overclocked results. Not sure what caused the improvement, but it could have been either the fresh windows install, Windows 11 (was using W10 at the time), improvement on Nvidia drivers or something that was sucking resources at the time that I was not aware of.

New run:

Old best stock results:

PS: Only tweak I did was undervolting, which we have always still considered stock since the clocks have not been messed with. But I'm pretty sure I was already undervolting in 2021.
Seeing this new video from Jayztwocents, maybe my guess was right and it was really the drivers that got better:


Just as in the video, my drivers also had 3 years between the last and current Firestrike runs, even though my 2070 was far from being a recent launch at the time or my last run (it was actually replaced by the 30 series very soon after). But good to see better results in my DTR anyway.
 

SpyderTracks

We love you Ukraine
Seeing this new video from Jayztwocents, maybe my guess was right and it was really the drivers that got better:


Just as in the video, my drivers also had 3 years between the last and current Firestrike runs, even though my 2070 was far from being a recent launch at the time or my last run (it was actually replaced by the 30 series very soon after). But good to see better results in my DTR anyway.
That was a really good video from Jay actually and an important topic.
 
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