First new PC In Ten Years, would appreciate advice

R

RMS Oceanic

Member
Hi folks, my current PC is getting long in the tooth, so I've decided to bite the bullet and replace the whole thing.

Use cases: Consistent but not necessarily highend/max settings gaming, office work, media storage/playback, occasional video editing.
Current Monitor: Samsung S27AM500NR
Budget: ~£1600-1700

With a lot of thought I have come up with the following specs:

Case
PCS ELEMENT CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™ i5 10-Core Processor i5-12600K (Up to 4.9GHz) 20MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® PRIME B760-PLUS D4 (LGA1700, DDR4, PCIe 5.0)
Memory (RAM)
32GB PCS PRO DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
16GB AMD RADEON™ RX 7800 XT GAMING - HDMI, DP - DX® 12
1st M.2 SSD Drive
2TB SOLIDIGM P41+ GEN 4 M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD (up to 4125MB/sR, 3325MB/sW)
1st Storage Drive
4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 5400RPM, 256MB CACHE
1st Storage Drive
4TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 5400RPM, 256MB CACHE
DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
16x BLU-RAY WRITER DRIVE, 16x DVD ±R/±RW & SOFTWARE
Power Supply
CORSAIR 650W CV SERIES™ CV-650 POWER SUPPLY
Power Cable
1 x 1.5 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
PCS FrostFlow 100 V3 Series High Performance CPU Cooler
Thermal Paste
STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
WIRELESS INTEL® Wi-Fi 6 AX200 2,400Mbps/5GHz, 300Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD + BT 5.0
USB/Thunderbolt Options
2 PORT (2 x TYPE A) USB 3.0 PCI-E CARD + STANDARD USB PORTS
Operating System
Windows 11 Professional 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10/11 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Unlimited Downloads from Online Account

How does this look? Is anything in particular looking like overkill? Is there any experience on whether this would be a noisy assembly? Is the cooling I've selected adequate?

Also side query, does anyone know if Windows 11 is installed in a manner that doesn't require a Microsoft Account? If at all possible I'd like to continue my current practice of using a local account only, and would appreciate knowing the feasibility/pitfalls of this.
 
Last edited:
sck451

sck451

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
This is a tricky setup, which I think is why no one has replied yet. One problem is your monitor: it's not really a gaming monitor as it's only 1080p 60Hz, which is going to be a pretty rubbish experience: you could spend literally hundreds of pounds less on the PC and not notice any difference in performance because the monitor will be the bottleneck.

It's also a bit weird in that you have unusual storage choices (I presume this is for the media storage?) Can you clarify what your plans are here? What are the places you want the best performance? (Gaming, video editing, or what -- they require different compromises at this budget.)

In answer to your specific questions... The graphics card is overkill, because your monitor can't make use of it. Your case is not nearly good enough (it's very limited for airflow), and the same for the cooling and power supply. I'd honestly also go a different route and go with Ryzen 7000 and DDR5 memory to get you on a more future-compatible build and to allow a vastly greater range of future upgrades.

I'm afraid I have no idea about the Microsoft account aspect of this.
 
SpyderTracks

SpyderTracks

We love you Ukraine
Martinr36 said:
Regarding the MS side of things, give this a read

www.howtogeek.com

How to Set Up Windows 11 Without a Microsoft Account

Did anyone ask for compulsory Microsoft logins?
www.howtogeek.com www.howtogeek.com
Click to expand...
You can also convert a PC logging in with a microsoft account back to a local account at any time, I've just done it on one of mine

pureinfotech.com

How to switch from Microsoft account to local account on Windows 11 - Pureinfotech

To switch a Microsoft to a local account on Windows 11, open Settings > Accounts > Your Info, and click Sign in with a local account instead.
pureinfotech.com pureinfotech.com
 
Martinr36

Martinr36

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
R

RMS Oceanic

Member
To clarify, yes the HDDs are for media storage while gaming would be accessed from the SSD. I'd primarily be looking for consistent gaming performance. My games of choice are a bit long in the tooth, but when I have switched to more recent fare it chugs signifficantly. I'd be content with maybe being two or three steps behind the cutting edge for cost reasons, including maybe getting a new monitor next year, but I hope it's a longterm purchase, as I go long stretches before upgrading. It's hard to know which graphics card are adequate for today and will remain adequate indefinitely. I'm definitely open to case recommendations for cooling/noise optimisation, preferably with easy-access USB ports on the front.

I'm thinking it may be best to post my current PC specs, also a PCS order from 2013, and explain I'm gunning for a straight upgrade/modernisation of it.

Case
COOLERMASTER CM690 MKII ADVANCED CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™ i5 Quad Core Processor i5-4670 (3.4GHz) 6MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® Z87-A: ATX, USB3.0, SATA6GB/S, SLi, XFIRE
Memory (RAM)
8GB KINGSTON HYPER-X GENESIS DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz, X.M.P (2 x 4GB KIT)
Graphics Card
2GB AMD RADEON™ R9 270X - DVI, HDMI, DP - DX® 11, Eyefinity 4 Capable
1st Storage Drive
960GB CRUCIAL M500 SSD, SATA 6 Gb/s (up to 500MB/sR | 400MB/sW)
1st Storage Drive
3TB SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 64MB CACHE
1st Storage Drive
3TB SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 64MB CACHE
DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
15x BLU-RAY WRITER DRIVE, 16x DVD ±R/±RW
Memory Card Reader
INTERNAL 52 IN 1 CARD READER (XD, MS, CF, SD, etc) + 1 x USB 2.0 PORT
Power Supply
CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES™ VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
Power Cable
1 x 1.5 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
Super Quiet 22dBA Triple Copper Heatpipe Intel CPU Cooler
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless Network Card
WIRELESS 802.11N 450Mbps/2.4GHz DUAL-BAND PCI-E CARD
USB/Thunderbolt Options
2 PORT (2 x TYPE A) USB 3.0 PCI-E CARD + STANDARD USB PORTS
4G Module
NONE, I WILL BE USING BROADBAND
Operating System
Genuine Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit w/SP1 - inc DVD & Single Licence
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 7 Professional (64-bit) DVD with paper sleeve
 
Scott

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
There are a number of caveats to this recommendation as it relies so heavily on a monitor upgrade down the line, at which time I would consider a GPU upgrade as well.

Are you completely against upgrading the PC once you have it? The below easily has 10 years in it but it has a sensible CPU and GPU combo in there. To refresh the system entirely in a number of years you could upgrade the CPU & GPU to have a top end system (or a system to any level you wish). The whole point of a PC is to make it modular so that you spend wisely in the beginning and add to it through the years to keep it relevant.

The CPU is a high end gaming option but not the top tier (7800X3D), there is value in having the 7800X3D with pricing right now but you won't make use of it at this particular avenue. I've selected a high end processor so that you never need to consider that again, the budget is there and it'll be completely silent for your usage.

The GPU is overkill, serious overkill, but good value for money compared to the rest. This is where it gets a little weird though as there's no point in going past this level....... but if/when you opt for a new monitor, it's likely you could use more power if you opt for 1440p. I wouldn't spend the money on a 1440p GPU right now though, as it's completely wasted..... you can see the quandary.

Everything else in the build is high end and it's a completely solid build.

Oh, I didn't select Windows Pro, I wasn't sure if that was a mistake for you or not? It's £25 more but I don't know if you would make any use of the Pro features?


Case
CORSAIR 4000D AIRFLOW TEMPERED GLASS GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
AMD Ryzen 7 7700 Eight Core CPU (3.8GHz-5.3GHz/40MB CACHE/AM5)
Motherboard
ASUS® TUF GAMING B650-PLUS WIFI (AM5, DDR5, PCIe 4.0, Wi-Fi 6)
Memory (RAM)
32GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR5 6000MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
8GB AMD RADEON™ RX 7600 - HDMI, DP - DX® 12
Graphics Card Support Bracket
PCS GRAPHICS CARD SUPPORT BRACKET
1st M.2 SSD Drive
512GB SOLIDIGM P44 PRO GEN 4 M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD (up to 7000MB/sR, 4700MB/sW)
1st M.2 SSD Drive
2TB SOLIDIGM P41+ GEN 4 M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD (up to 4125MB/sR, 3325MB/sW)
Power Supply
CORSAIR 850W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable
1 x 1.5 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead, 1.0mm Core)
Processor Cooling
CORSAIR iCUE H115i ELITE CAPELLIX XT RGB High Performance CPU Cooler
Thermal Paste
STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Network Card
ONBOARD 2.5Gbe LAN PORT
USB/Thunderbolt Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Operating System
Windows 11 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KUK-00003]
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10/11 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Unlimited Downloads from Online Account
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required)
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Google Chrome™
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)
Delivery
STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 4 to 6 working days
Price: £1,590.00 including VAT and Delivery

Unique URL to re-configure: https://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/saved-configurations/amd-am5-pc/emvgmJh9!P/
 
R

RMS Oceanic

Member
Thank you for your advice. Besides swapping around the hard drive arrangement to my tastes, I've made a couple of other changes: I still use Optical Media, and my original spec had a drive, but your suggested case doesn't accomodate those. So in re-adding an optical drive I also changed the case to the Fractal Pop Silent Case TG, the next one in the list of offered cases. Does that upset the thesis of your recommendation in terms of heating/noise or will it suffice just as well?
 
Scott

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
I would definitely consider your storage usage and your reasoning. There's logic to why I have suggested things the way I have for the primary and secondary drive. Slower storage drives are always a personal thing, I have a couple of them but only one holds anything important with it being backed up to the cloud.

I put the following together for info, I think it covers most key points: https://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/forums/threads/why-more-than-one-storage-drive.94375/

With the optical drive, I would tend to get a USB one. They are being phased out for the most part and the case options are very limited. There isn't a down side to a USB drive nowadays, they're very good and it means you can simply put it in the drawer when you don't need it.
 
R

RMS Oceanic

Member
I should clarify I wasn't rejecting your two-SSD build, I believe I understand the intent, a high-end dedicated OS Drive and then a larger but slightly older drive for games. It makes sense to me and honestly doesn't inflate the price as much as I feared. I just meant re-adding my HDD drives as well for media storage, as my current PC's drives are pretty well stocked on that front. Also you've talked me into getting an external optical drive, which also is cheaper than I feared, and returning to your original case selection.

I'm getting closer to committing, but I have two questions at this point:

1. When parsing your spec to check for compatability, the PCS website is telling me that the 850W PSU is overkill, and even the 750W as well, with the current power consumption estimated at ~600W. I understand this spec is built with a future graphics upgrade in mind, but would I actually expect such a massive difference in power usage if and when I make a move beyond 1080p gaming? Would the 750W cover it, or is that too much a gamble for £20 difference?
2. Speaking of scraping pennies, is there much difference between the Corsair H115i and the Corsair H100x besides the £50 difference? The 115 sounds like it's more effective, but in cross-referencing reviews they seem to be much of a likeness. I kind of wish there were high-end coolers without the RGB bells and whistles, I honestly don't have much interest in lighting up my PC like that.

Thanks again for your advice, and I hope I'm not coming off as overly particular.
 
Scott

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
You absolutely should be particular, it's a lot of cash so always best to get your head around it all fully.

With the drives, if you're retiring the system it might be worthwhile just transferring the drives over?

With the PSU, 600w doesn't take into account transient spikes or maximum power draw, it calculates TDP which isn't ideal. 850w gives some headroom, but I would actually consider 1000w. As much as it definitely covers any future upgrades, it's also more efficient and will operate close to silent in most situations (It has zero fan mode below 30% utilisation). I definitely wouldn't save the £20 as the other side you would be kicking yourself for not going for it. You can do anything with 1000w PSU, but 850w covers nicely too with a more palatable price.

With regards to the H115i vs H100x, the H100x uses conventional fans, the H115i uses magnetic levitation fans. In this sort of use case they won't be hard pushed so either or is fine, what you are paying for with the H115i would be whisper quiet system. The H100i also has the ML fans, it's the x variant that doesn't.... hence the price difference. The RGB is standard nowadays, you're not paying a premium for it. You can switch it off very easily :)
 
R

RMS Oceanic

Member
Transferring the existing drives over would make sense, but they are currently 3TB a pop and I'm interested in getting more space in that regard.

In any case, I've cast the die and placed my order. For hopefully the last time in a while, thank you for your advice.
 
T

TonyCarter

VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
RMS Oceanic said:
Transferring the existing drives over would make sense, but they are currently 3TB a pop and I'm interested in getting more space in that regard.

In any case, I've cast the die and placed my order. For hopefully the last time in a while, thank you for your advice.
Click to expand...
Nothing to stop you putting a couple of HDDs into a relatively cheap external multi-HDD bay (start at about £90 for a 2-bay, and about £150 for a 4-bay) with USB 3.0 will be quick enough to handle HDD speeds.
 
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