Liquid cooling pump failure?

P

Perranmarine

Member
Just wanted to get a second opinion before I buy new parts!

I bought this PC in 2012, it's seen heavy use so I'm not surprised something has failed.

I hadn't done any work inside the PC for months, no new parts or cleaning. Last thing I did with it before I went to bed was watch some Star Trek TNG (christ I'm such a cliche). The next day, after starting up, the fan is blowing hard and the performance gradually deteriorates (to the point desktop icons start glitching out and it takes 10 seconds for ctrl+alt+delete to show the task manager)

Sometimes, BIOS complains on startup about the temperature being too high, so I figured it was overheating.

I've cleaned out the metal grill component of the CPU fan, I've reseated the heat sink, and I've added more thermal paste.

After doing all of this, performance doesn't deteriorate to the point of the computer dragging to a halt, but the fan is still blowing heavily, and CPUID HWMonitor says the temperature is around 80 degrees, which seems pretty damn hot!

a.png

So I'm wondering: seems like the pump in the liquid cooling unit has died, right?

Specs:

Case
COOLERMASTER ELITE 310 BLUE CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™ i5-2500k Quad Core (3.30GHz, 6MB Cache) + HD Graphics
Motherboard
ASUS® P8Z77-V LX: USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs, ATI®CrossFireX
Memory (RAM)
8GB KINGSTON HYPERX GENESIS DUAL-DDR3 1866MHz X.M.P(2 x 4GB KIT)
Graphics Card
1.25GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 570 - 2 DVI, HDMI, DP (Special Offer)
1st Storage Drive
120GB INTEL® 330 SERIES SSD, SATA 6 Gb/s (up to 500MB/sR | 450MB/sW)
DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM
Memory Card Reader
INTERNAL 52 IN 1 CARD READER (XD, MS, CF, SD, etc) + 1 x USB 2.0 PORT
Power Supply
600W Quiet 80 PLUS Quad Rail PSU + 120mm Case Fan
Processor Cooling
CoolIT Eco II A.L.C Advanced Liquid CPU Cooler
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking
WIRELESS 802.11N 300Mbps/2.4GHz PCI CARD
USB/Thunderbolt Options
6 x USB 2.0 PORTS (MIN 2 FRONT PORTS) AS STANDARD
4G Module
NONE, I WILL BE USING BROADBAND
Operating System
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit w/SP1 - inc DVD & Licence
Office Software
NO OFFICE SOFTWARE
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Surge Protection
6 Socket Compact 2M UFO Surge Protector + Auto Power Off Function
 
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AgentCooper

AgentCooper

At Least I Have Chicken
Moderator
Do you have any software that allows you to monitor the pump itself? If not, I suppose you could go old fashioned and press a finger against the pump unit whilst the PC is turned on to feel if it's giving off any vibrations...
 
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P

Perranmarine

Member
AgentCooper said:
Do you have any software that allows you to monitor the pump itself? If not, I suppose you could go old fashioned and press a finger against the pump unit whilst the PC is turned on to feel if it's giving off any vibrations...
Click to expand...

Which bit is the pump? Under the grill? I'm not feeling much vibration!

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Scott

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
ubuysa said:
I think you mean @SpyderTracks? I don't do hardware, my interests and experience are in OS software internals and performance. :)

I'd expect to feel warmth in one of the pipes if the pump was running and the CPU was producing the temps we see above.... :unsure:
Click to expand...

You nailed it regardless ;)

To the op, with the system running you should be able to feel the pump if you put your fingers on top of the head of the CPU. If you can't feel it, this would suggest it's done for.

Check the pipes too, as suggested, one should be significantly warmer than the other. It should also continue to be hot right into the radiator, rather than just next to the CPU.

If there is no indication of the liquid flowing then the pump has had it. Still a decent innings for such a cooler though :)
 
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