My first build, how is it?

[reda222]

This is my first time building a PC, I just want to get some feedback on it and see what you guys think about it.

I will be using it to do lots of graphics design, lots of programming, and web development.
Is there any components I can cut back on? I chose the best Wireless adapter, is that needed? What are the differences?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

[Oussebon]

May I enthusiastically recommend a better case? Something with 2 fans at least (most of which also have front-facing USB 3 as an added quality of life bonus).

You could also get something fairly similar for a lot less:

Case
InWIN GT1 BLACK GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™i7 Quad Core Processor i7-6700 (3.4GHz) 8MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® H110M-R: Micro-ATX, DDR4, LG1151, USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs
Memory (RAM)
16GB HyperX FURY DDR4 2133MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
2GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 960 - DVI, HDMI, 3 x DP (Special!!)
1[SUP]st[/SUP] Hard Disk
480GB HyperX SAVAGE 2.5" SSD, SATA 6 Gb/s (upto 560MB/sR | 530MB/sW)
1[SUP]st[/SUP] DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
NOT REQUIRED
Power Supply
CORSAIR 450W VS SERIES™ VS-450 POWER SUPPLY
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
Super Quiet Titan DragonFly Heatpipe Intel CPU Cooler (£19)
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND (£9)
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking
WIRELESS 802.11 AC1900 1,300Mbps/5GHz, 600Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD (£49)
USB Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Operating System
Genuine Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc DVD & Licence (£89)
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft® Office® 365
Anti-Virus
BullGuard™ Internet Security - Free 90 Day License inc. Gamer Mode
Browser
Microsoft® Edge (Windows 10 Only)
Warranty
3 Year Standard Warranty (1 Month Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)
Delivery
STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 7 to 9 working days
Quantity
1

Price: £952.00 including VAT and delivery.

Unique URL to re-configure: http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/quotes/intel-skylake-home-office-pc/mtSKEVQd9x/

If the -k CPU, 3000MHz DDR4, and ATX mobo aren't worth ~£150-200 to you.

 

[reda222]

May I enthusiastically recommend a better case? Something with 2 fans at least (most of which also have front-facing USB 3 as an added quality of life bonus).

You could also get something fairly similar for a lot less:

Case
InWIN GT1 BLACK GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™i7 Quad Core Processor i7-6700 (3.4GHz) 8MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® H110M-R: Micro-ATX, DDR4, LG1151, USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs
Memory (RAM)
16GB HyperX FURY DDR4 2133MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
2GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 960 - DVI, HDMI, 3 x DP (Special!!)
1[SUP]st[/SUP] Hard Disk
480GB HyperX SAVAGE 2.5" SSD, SATA 6 Gb/s (upto 560MB/sR | 530MB/sW)
1[SUP]st[/SUP] DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
NOT REQUIRED
Power Supply
CORSAIR 450W VS SERIES™ VS-450 POWER SUPPLY
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
Super Quiet Titan DragonFly Heatpipe Intel CPU Cooler (£19)
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND (£9)
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking
WIRELESS 802.11 AC1900 1,300Mbps/5GHz, 600Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD (£49)
USB Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Operating System
Genuine Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc DVD & Licence (£89)
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft® Office® 365
Anti-Virus
BullGuard™ Internet Security - Free 90 Day License inc. Gamer Mode
Browser
Microsoft® Edge (Windows 10 Only)
Warranty
3 Year Standard Warranty (1 Month Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)
Delivery
STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 7 to 9 working days
Quantity
1

Price: £952.00 including VAT and delivery.

Unique URL to re-configure: http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/quotes/intel-skylake-home-office-pc/mtSKEVQd9x/

If the -k CPU, 3000MHz DDR4, and ATX mobo aren't worth ~£150-200 to you.

Thank you for the amazing reply. I think I'm going to go with the specs I posted with your case, cause I am willing to spend that extra to get it a bit more powerful. Is my SSD good?

 

[James_C]

I rate the HyperX Savage SSDs higher than the Samsung Evo ones. All of the benchmark testing that I've done here the Savage come out more consistent in terms of both read and write speed while the Samsung is more varied.

 

[Oussebon]

I rate the HyperX Savage SSDs higher than the Samsung Evo ones. All of the benchmark testing that I've done here the Savage come out more consistent in terms of both read and write speed while the Samsung is more varied.

You mean the 750 evo or the 850 evo? (I assume the 750 as we're talking about the 500gb capacity - I'm just asking as if you mean the 850s too that would be quite interesting)

Thank you for the amazing reply. I think I'm going to go with the specs I posted with your case, cause I am willing to spend that extra to get it a bit more powerful.

If that's the case then you might want to consider an overclocked build. The extra costs would be having to go for at least a CS650 PSU (which is better quality and modular, so arguably worth getting over the CS anyway) and a better cooler.

I chose the best Wireless adapter, is that needed? What are the differences?

I missed that question the first time. The main differences would be whether the wifi card is dual band or not and the speeds of data transfer it supports. If you have a powerful dual band router and copy large quantities of files to network storage, the more expensive wifi card may well be worth it. If you just need wifi to connect to your router and use broadband internet with no frills, the £49 card might not be worth it.

 

[reda222]

You mean the 750 evo or the 850 evo? (I assume the 750 as we're talking about the 500gb capacity - I'm just asking as if you mean the 850s too that would be quite interesting)

If that's the case then you might want to consider an overclocked build. The extra costs would be having to go for at least a CS650 PSU (which is better quality and modular, so arguably worth getting over the CS anyway) and a better cooler.

I missed that question the first time. The main differences would be whether the wifi card is dual band or not and the speeds of data transfer it supports. If you have a powerful dual band router and copy large quantities of files to network storage, the more expensive wifi card may well be worth it. If you just need wifi to connect to your router and use broadband internet with no frills, the £49 card might not be worth it.

What exactly do you mean by going for an overclocked system? What is the benefits of that? CS650 PSU? What is that lol.

About the wireless, I just want a wireless card to utilise the maximum broadband that I have in the house. We have a pretty good connection of about 70 MB/s broadband speed. I want to make sure that a wireless card will utilise all that and have the best connection as possible. Because I will be doing lots of Web development which a good internet connection is vital.

 

[PCUser1990]

When you overclock your system you basically are making the processor work harder by putting more voltage through it and thus achieve much higher clock speeds. This also leads to a higher temperature in your processor which will require additional cooling such as the Noctua or Corsair coolers. The main benefit is that you will get a higher clock speed which will increase the overall performance of the processor at the cost of needing additional cooling. Some people worry that overclocking reduces the system lifetime, but by the time you need to replace the processor it will be VERY outdated. The CS650 PSU simply means the Corsair 650W Power Supply Unit.

 

[reda222]

When you overclock your system you basically are making the processor work harder by putting more voltage through it and thus achieve much higher clock speeds. This also leads to a higher temperature in your processor which will require additional cooling such as the Noctua or Corsair coolers. The main benefit is that you will get a higher clock speed which will increase the overall performance of the processor at the cost of needing additional cooling. Some people worry that overclocking reduces the system lifetime, but by the time you need to replace the processor it will be VERY outdated. The CS650 PSU simply means the Corsair 650W Power Supply Unit.

Ok. I don't think I want to go for an overclocked system. But is there anything I need to be worried about for my specs I initially posted? Provided that I get the case you recommended. That case will allow me to add/change components easily, right?

I mainly need help with my motherboard? Is mine ok? Why do I need a better motherboard?

Thank you in advance, you really helped me a lot.

 

[Oussebon]

I mainly need help with my motherboard? Is mine ok? Why do I need a better motherboard?

It's fine. Who said you needed a better motherboard? There are arguments for a more expensive motherboard, such as them having USB 3.1 but I don't see there's anything wrong with a Z170-P.

Provided that I get the case you recommended. That case will allow me to add/change components easily, right?

Most of the cases are pretty standard in that they're ATX, have cages for the hard drives, most have bays for DVD drives, etc. Some cases will be better suited to some upgrades than others (e.g. some cases might not handle super-long graphics cards or two large GPUs in SLI). But if you mean basic stuff like adding more storage, more RAM, removing the graphics card and adding a new one instead, any case you like should be fine. If you have a specific upgrade in mind it would be easier to comment.

The reason I advocated for the GT1 case is that it has 3 pre-installed fans, not just 1 like the Piano Black Enigma, which will help keep stuff cooler. It also has front-facing USB 3 which means you don't need to reach around the back of the PC if you want to use a USB 3 HDD/ flash drive with the proper speeds.

 

[reda222]

It's fine. Who said you needed a better motherboard? There are arguments for a more expensive motherboard, such as them having USB 3.1 but I don't see there's anything wrong with a Z170-P.

Most of the cases are pretty standard in that they're ATX, have cages for the hard drives, most have bays for DVD drives, etc. Some cases will be better suited to some upgrades than others (e.g. some cases might not handle super-long graphics cards or two large GPUs in SLI). But if you mean basic stuff like adding more storage, more RAM, removing the graphics card and adding a new one instead, any case you like should be fine. If you have a specific upgrade in mind it would be easier to comment.

The reason I advocated for the GT1 case is that it has 3 pre-installed fans, not just 1 like the Piano Black Enigma, which will help keep stuff cooler. It also has front-facing USB 3 which means you don't need to reach around the back of the PC if you want to use a USB 3 HDD/ flash drive with the proper speeds.

Thank you for your very informative reply.

Is it worth it for me to spend an extra £19 to get the Z170-E motherboard, it has USB 3.1? Is that worth it? Cause most devices only support 3.0 now right? What is the benefits of having USB 3.1 because that is the only difference between the -P and the -E motherboard right?

Yes that case you recommended is definitively going to be a good choice, thanks for that.

 

[SpyderTracks]

Thank you for your very informative reply.

Is it worth it for me to spend an extra £19 to get the Z170-E motherboard, it has USB 3.1? Is that worth it? Cause most devices only support 3.0 now right? What is the benefits of having USB 3.1 because that is the only difference between the -P and the -E motherboard right?

Yes that case you recommended is definitively going to be a good choice, thanks for that.

I'd say it's worth it. Most phones will be usb3.1 from now and even laptops are defaulting to it. I would say it's worth the extra.

 

[reda222]

I'd say it's worth it. Most phones will be usb3.1 from now and even laptops are defaulting to it. I would say it's worth the extra.

But any 3.0 device will still work with it right?

 

[Oussebon]

USB 3.1 can have different connectors, but the motherboards with USB 3.1 will also have multiple USB 3.0 ports. If you click on the (?) next to the motherboard drop down menu in the configurator it tells you what the motherboards have.

e.g.

Z170-E:
6 x USB 3.0 ports (2 back panel, 4 mid-board), 6 x USB 2.0 ports (2 back panel, 4 mid-board), 1 x USB 3.1 ports (back panel)

ASUS® Z170 PRO GAMING/AURA:
6 x USB 3.0 ports (2 mid-board; 4 back panel), 8 x USB 2.0 ports (6 mid-board; 2 back panel), 1 x USB 3.1 Type-A, 1 x usb 3.1 Type-C

 

[reda222]

USB 3.1 can have different connectors, but the motherboards with USB 3.1 will also have multiple USB 3.0 ports. If you click on the (?) next to the motherboard drop down menu in the configurator it tells you what the motherboards have.

e.g.

Ohhh, ok. Thank you very much. You guys all have been great.

 

[reda222]

USB 3.1 can have different connectors, but the motherboards with USB 3.1 will also have multiple USB 3.0 ports. If you click on the (?) next to the motherboard drop down menu in the configurator it tells you what the motherboards have.

e.g.

I have a few more questions. Im getting a cheap sound card, does the sound card determine the quality of the sound or what does it do?
Also I will be having 2 monitors, what is the best way to connect both? My GPU only has 1 HDMI.

 

[Oussebon]

I have a few more questions. Im getting a cheap sound card, does the sound card determine the quality of the sound or what does it do?

If you don't know what the sound card does for you, you don't need one. The onboard sound (from the motherboard or GPU) will be fine.

Also I will be having 2 monitors, what is the best way to connect both? My GPU only has 1 HDMI.

That depends on the inputs your 2nd monitor has. If it has DVI or Display Port (DP), you can just connect it up with either of those. If it only has VGA, then an adapter cable that connects to the GPU's DVI output (for example) and has a VGA connector at the other end for the monitor would be an option.

For 1920 x 1080 resolution and a standard 60hz refresh rate, I think DVI is much the same as DP, there's no real advantage to one. DP can carry sound (just like HDMI does), while DVI cannot. Obviously that only works if the input and the output are DP, (and the monitor has speakers / an audio out socket into which some speakers or earphones are connected). If you used an adapter cable that plugs into the GPU DP output and connects to the monitor's DVI input for your monitor, or vice versa, it wouldn't transmit the sound.

 

[reda222]

If you don't know what the sound card does for you, you don't need one. The onboard sound (from the motherboard or GPU) will be fine.

That depends on the inputs your 2nd monitor has. If it has DVI or Display Port (DP), you can just connect it up with either of those. If it only has VGA, then an adapter cable that connects to the GPU's DVI output (for example) and has a VGA connector at the other end for the monitor would be an option.

For 1920 x 1080 resolution and a standard 60hz refresh rate, I think DVI is much the same as DP, there's no real advantage to one. DP can carry sound (just like HDMI does), while DVI cannot. Obviously that only works if the input and the output are DP, (and the monitor has speakers / an audio out socket into which some speakers or earphones are connected). If you used an adapter cable that plugs into the GPU DP output and connects to the monitor's DVI input for your monitor, or vice versa, it wouldn't transmit the sound.

In terms of quality, is the DP same like HDMI? How I want it is Hdmi connected to my main computer which has a headphone/speaker jack for sound. Then I just want a second monitor acting like an extension of the desktop, sound doesnt matter for that monitor just video, what is the best quality wise, DP or DVI? Right now I have it setup with my laptop as my main monitor and its hdmi port is connected to an hdmi on my monitor, that works perfectly. I just haven't done it with a desktop and 2 individual monitors.

Thanks

 

[Oussebon]

There's no difference in image quality between DVI and DP for 1080p 60hz so if you don't need the sound then use whatever you want.
http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/1312-cables-dvi-differences-hdmi-vs-displayport

 

[reda222]

There's no difference in image quality between DVI and DP for 1080p 60hz so if you don't need the sound then use whatever you want.
http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/1312-cables-dvi-differences-hdmi-vs-displayport

Perfect, since it will be a second monitor either way the frequency doesn't matter since I will be using the main monitor to play.

Can you recommend a monitor on a budget? This monitor is going to be my first because I will use the one I have now for the dvi/dp. Good quality gaming monitor, any reasonable size.

Now since most monitors are 1080p what else do you have to look at for quality?

 

[Oussebon]

Check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER1YV42iqrE
I wouldn't get too hung up about finding the absolute best response time possible though.

Of the ones off the PC Specialist menu perhaps:
AOC I2369VM 23" Widescreen (review) https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/aoc-i2369vm/ IIYAMA GE2488HS-B2 24" (£121) (review) http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/monitors/77517-iiyama-prolite-ge2488hs/

The iiyama has a higher response time so if you play lots of pvp shooters then it might be an option. The AOC is the one I'd pick as it's a good budget IPS screen with very nice colours. It's fine for gaming - we have one in the house, and it doesn't seem to ghost in MMO boss fights with all kinds of stuff going on. If you play a range of games and/or particularly RPGs then it might be the better choice.